Several people have asked how to do the upgrade to TMC Stepper drivers, which are both quieter and have better print quality. DaHai Zhu has some awesome videos on the A5 - and he's now working on a series of 3 videos that make it really easy to install the TMC in a variety of methods.
If you haven't already, I definitely recommend akai fire ableton check out his channel! Toggle navigation. Samuel Pinches Posts: 2, Administrator. Thanked by 1 fmj Post edited by Samuel Pinches on December September I am a new A5 user and I wanted initially to check my Vref on stepper drivers when I noticed there is no potentiometer on the driver to set VRef Picture inclosed.
You have the stock A drivers from JGAurora. September edited September But, I had thought that they were just specially designed for that motherboard on that specific printer Post edited by Samuel Pinches on September November What happens when cooling of new drivers fails. Get proper fan before upgrade. December edited December Hi Sam. Some information why that small change but loosing hardware compatibility was done at all?
It looks it was "discussed" already here Post edited by netzmark on December December I am sorry, but I have not done this modification and I am not knowledgeable of the details of what changed between 1. You may have to try and see. I have the question about the currents settings.
What's going on with this about, how to understand it? For me Z is replaced with Y.I don't care for the stallGuard feature. If you want sensorless homing then don't use 22xx drivers.
Instead, get 24V power hotend, fans, modified Arduino or other control board, heatbed, etc and run in spreadCycle mode with SPI wires. This is a wiki of useful advice I commonly give or have seen on places like StackExchange and Reddit.
Sometimes I will link directly to useful posts, sometimes I will make a page on here and curate content. Unless otherwise noted per-page, all information here is provided under Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike.
Anyone is more than welcome to steal this stuff, but you must give credit and you must provide others the same rights. If you wish to give a financial thanks for any advice, please don't buy me Reddit Gold or Thingiverse Tips, instead make a donation to Abandoned Pet Project or an animal rescue charity in your area.
Skip to content. The alternative is spreadCycle mode which causes most motors to whine with 12V power. What am I missing out on? The heatsink goes on top away from the control board. If your driver has PCB color silkscreen aka solder mask over the cooling pad then don't worry about it.
Wipe top of driver with isopropyl alcohol. Add heatsink so it covers the through-pad the little grid of circles showing where the IC is. You need heatsinks and a fan blowing hot air away from the heatsink. Do not use these drivers without both heatsink and fan.
They will shut down if they reach C internally and they will reach that temperature if you don't cool them. Install Driver Power off printer. Unplug X and Y motors.
Remove old driver A or DRV Plug new driver in. Power on printer. Use vref hole on board and power supply ground to measure vref. If the trimpot is on the underside of the board and you turn it through a hole in the PCB, use a ceramic non-conductive screwdriver, do not use a conductive metal screwdriver. Plug X and Y motors in. Configure Firmware You need to invert the motor direction for the X and Y drivers. Marlin or Repetier Firmware Open Configuration.
Upload firmware to the control board. Feel sorry for yourself that you use Smoothieware.
See if Marlin bit will run on your board soon. Have your finger on the reset button just in case. Home printer with G If movement is unexpected, press reset and troubleshoot. If all works well, do some test moves and prints.The stepper drivers that come with the A5 are the cheap and cheerful A This drivers are incredibly low-cost, and are generally quite reliable and robust.
However, they do fall short in a few areas:. One option comes from a German company called Trinamic, who make a range of more advanced stepper driver chips.
These chips can be swapped in to overcome ALL the shortcomings of the A listed above, and to add some additional smart features too. All Trinamic drivers offer x microstepping, and are much quieter in operation too. The current range of Trinamic drivers available is listed on the manufacturer's website, but only some are available in ready to go drop-in modules. For each of these driver modules, details about where to buy, and how to install are listed below.
NOTE: the orientation of the new drivers is different to the factory ones. Make sure you match up the pinout with the old drivers to ensure you insert them correctly. There are a few options for configuring the TMC, and as a result there are range of modules that come preconfigured for different operation modes. Changing the mode requires some very delicate soldering, so it is best to buy the module preconfigured for the way you want to use it.
User Tools Register Log In. Site Tools Search. General Info Firmware. However, they do fall short in a few areas: They are incredibly noisy.
See the TMC section below for more info. TMC : Same as the TMC, but also offers additional operation modes, as well as additional functionality like stall detection. This chip is also easier to install, and can even be used without any firmware changes at all! Amazon USA. Basic Installation is fairly straightforward: Remove old drivers.
Tune the stepper driver Vref. Standalone mode modules TMC v1. Guide for installing on 1. Part 1. Part 2. Part 3.NOTE: This setup is pretty much outdated. Since I do not own the Ender 3 anymore, I will not be making an updated guide. The one drawback is that you will be losing the built in SD Card support but there is a way to add it back. You are able to choose any stepper motor drivers you wish for though. For instance you can keep to the stock A Stepper Motor Drivers if you would like to save a little bit of money.
You also have the option to change out the case fan if you would like. Noctuas are the most popular and are generally much quieter than the stock fan. We have options for this. We can have the options of 40x40x10mm or 40x40x20mm and 5v or 12v for each. The 40x40x20mm 12v would move the most air through the case and you can plug it in to the mainboard fan slot so it is not running all the time like the 5v would.
But here are the links for each option:. Before you can do anything, you need to print a case for the new mainboard. These prints will vary based on what printer you have:. I printed the original case made by Michael at Teaching Tech and found that the screws for the top and bottom were about 8mm off. I modified the case to account for this defference. The stock fan for the enclosure is set for a 40x40x10mm fan. I have also made an option for a 40x40x20mm fan.
Both of these options can be found on Thingiverse. The case that Michael made was designed for the Ender 3 Pro and can be found on Thingiverse. The case allows for a 40x40x10mm fan but I have also modified that case for a 40x40x20mm fan and can be found in the comments section.
I highly recommend printing some sort of cable protector for your printer. The extrusion railing can be very sharp and easily slice through the outer coating of wires and possibly causing a short.
I printed this cable protector by Supavitax and it works like a charm. I present you with two choices: 1. Continue on as normal. Edit and flash the firmware and jump back here later. This is the better option if your printer is not close to your computer. The next thing you should do is power down the printer. You should do this by having the printer on and then unplugging it from the wall or printer. You should not just turn the switch off because that would allow residual power to be left in the components.It's not difficult to set up.
Note: this Instructable is meant for the general-use LPCbased SKR boards -- it does not apply to the "Pro", "Mini", or any of the other models aimed at specific printer brands or use cases.
This will put you on that branch, even with 2. When you're sure Marlin and PlatformIO are ready, go ahead and load your Marlin configs into your favorite editor or IDE you'll do the necessary tweaking later in this Instructable.
If you're using the SKR v1. You can plug it back in later. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
I use Eryone driver modules the amber board above, leftwhich seem to be based on some reference board, as they're the same as number of other brands. There may also be a jumper on the right assuming you're holding the module with the bottom facing you and the diagnostic holes to the right. If you have this kind, then if you hold the module with the chip and such facing you, and the potentiometer and diagnostic holes to your leftthere'll be one set of jumper pads on the right, and one set near the middle.
There may also be a jumper on the left. There are at least two brands that put the chip and such on top, or did in the recent past Watterott and BigTreeTech. Use your soldering iron to bridge this middle pair of pads together.
Most of these have their three-pad jumper placed near the middle of the header like on the white module pictured abovewhere the older modules have a two-pad jumper. Simple, right? In one variant made by Eryone the second of the two amber boards above, lower-rightthis three-pad jumper is not in the middle like usual, but instead is positioned way over near one edge where the potentiometer would normally be found, next to the three diagnostic holes, and aligned parallel to the edge of the driver module and there's a two-pad jumper on the other end next to a resistor.
In these 3-pad-jumper drivers, which pair of the jumper's pads should be shorted together technically depends on what SKR version you'll use the module on.
But, let's make it simple: just solder-bridge all three pads together. This configuration will work on all types of controller boards, regardless of brand, so long as the controller board still has a standard MS config block between the driver module's headers.
If you have one of the parts-on-top driver modules mentioned earlier, but with a three pad jumper, do the same thing on that one - short all three pads together. I have yet to find an example of this type driver module, but I'm sure they exist, or will soon enough since the two-pad jumper is the older version.
These may include the "v3.Most people who are involved with DIY 3D printers or just like tinkering with a Maker-Grade commercial printer, will have heard of the Trinamic series of stepper motor driver chips.
These little chips are making waves throughout the consumer and prosumer 3D printer markets due to their astonishing ability to render a 3D printer practically silent. The photo above shows my Y-cables in different positions to what they would be now, in the current version of Marlin.
See Step 10 for details on how to find these current Pin assignments. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. With these TMCbased SilentStepSticks, the only option really discussed anywhere on the web is for direct plug-and-play replacement of the Pololu A drivers which doesn't give you the benefits of the UART serial communication for control over your stepper motorsbut the TMC driver is actually capable of three different modes of operation in controlling the stepper motors of your 3D printer:.
Mode 1 Legacy Mode : this has already been discussed in the opening paragraph of this Instructable, basically solder on header pins, stick on a heat sink so it looks just like a Pololu A board, and plug it into the Ramps board. Note, these OTP bits are truly one-time programmable. Once you "set" these bits you make a permanent change in the silicon of the chip and this cannot be reversed. So I would recommend operating these chips in the default stealthChop2 mode for a while, to see if you get any skipped steps, before considering changing them to the spreadCycle mode by setting these OTP bits.
YouTube creator Alex Kenis has put out a great video on this option in which he explores the best micro-step settings in firmware and driver voltage levels 12V vs 24Vto get the most torque from your motors.
The intent of this Instructable is to expand upon his work in terms of explanation and make it more approachable to the less technical Makers out there. You don't have to fiddle with jumpers to set your micro-steps, just change it in the firmware, and you can dynamically change the amount of current going to each stepper motor no more adjusting that small potentiometer on the driver board just by sending a GCode command M One more bit of explanation before I get into this in detail.
For those who haven't realized this yet, there are two companies involved here:. Here are the basic tools and supplies you will need to complete this Instructable. In order to make this physical connection from the chip to the header pin we need to solder a jumper between the jumper pads on the bottom of the SilentStepStick board. You can see these solder pads in the Fritzing and photographic images above.
There have been several versions of the Watterott TMC board, with some having only two jumper pads. On the iteration I have and that shown in the photos in this Instructablethere are three pads grouped together. The center pad is the direct connection back to the TMC chip. The two pads on either side connect directly to the header pin they are closest to. We only need one of these two header pins for our UART serial connection, so you can either solder the center pad to the left or right pad, or to both.
If you only solder to one side, then you must remember to solder the header pin for that side pointing up, so you can attach your UART jumper wire to it later. If you want to eliminate any chance of mistake, then just solder all three pads together. That way it doesn't matter which header pin you solder pointing up, as they will both work. Now that the jumper pads are soldered we can solder the header pins in place if your board didn't already come with the header pins attached.
I give credit to Instructables member crzcrz for pointing this out to me. If the EN header pin is not soldered in, then no enable signal is sent to the TMC chip, and your motors will not turn on. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the current version of Marlin 1.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.
Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. I am about to install these with the one wire off MS3 tomorrow when my new board comes Like Kevin did. Best I can tell it is the space between the pad and the solder joint beside of it but I could be wrong. Can anyone look at the picture and confirm this is what I need before I solder it and hook it up to the board and klipper?
I know this isn't an exact klipper issue but I would appreciate any help given. Thank you in advance.TMC2208 3 Ways - Part 1
Hi Maximuscr31, I don't have the exact same TMC as yours but the same situation no docs on what to bridge. I then 'assumed' that the other side of the two pads was for bridging the UART since all other guides worked this way. Tested it on one and all was good.
Currently have one wire working with Marlin 1. So I bridged the solder pads and tested with a meter for continuity and got it on the pdn pin and the solder blob so apparently I chose correctly I think. I also tested from the solder to a cable attached to ms3 on the pdn side. It had continuity. Problem is the height of a dupont connector. Before I solder the wire to ms3 anyone have bright ideas for connecting it a little less permanently that will fit under the driver?
Stepper Driver Upgrades: TMC2100, TMC2130, TMC2208
On my Gen-L board, I found that the MS3 pin on the driver is routed to a jumper pin underneath the stepper driver. I removed the jumper from the jumper pin and used a jumper wire to route that pin on the board to another pin on the board that is connect to the micro-controller. The jumper pin under the driver was pointing up, but I just pushed the pin diagonally so that the jumper cable fits and does not touch the stepper driver. I cringed at bending the pins but did it that way.